A week of local life from 11 Quai Bourbon, Île Saint-Louis Paris.
The first time I came to Paris, I was a tourist, rushing around to see all of the iconic sites. It was magical, but a flurry of activity. Now I am a resident, and can savor each day like a local.
Sunday — Bells, Mass, and a Slow Stroll
The heart of the city, Ile Saint Louis is a special place. The bells of Notre Dame gently rouse me from a restful night’s sleep. I linger over a hot cup of coffee. The newspaper is spread out before me, but it is the views of the sun’s gentle light waking each rooftop in the city that captures my gaze.
A short while later, I wander over Pont Saint-Louis; five minutes later I’m beneath the pristine, newly renovated towers, ready for Sunday Mass. It doesn’t matter how many times I come, the organ music soaring through the vaulted ceilings fills me up each time.
Stepping back out to sunlight, it is a short stroll to the Marché aux Fleurs Reine-Elizabeth II , where I take my time choosing just the right bouquet to adorn the dining table. The bouquinistes now beckon. After much deliberation, I settle on a vintage novel and stop at Pain d’Epices for a Sunday brunch just steps from home. This small restaurant on Île Saint-Louis, with its bohemian atmosphere and warm decor, is a real cocoon, and the perfect setting to devour my new novel, and a delicious artisanal brunch.
Monday — Local Treasures on Ile Saint Louis
Mondays belongs to locals. Many of the tourist sites are closed, and Paris feels more homey, relaxed. I pick up a warm baguette tradition at Boulangerie Saint-Louis, then head over the to Musée Vivant du Fromage for cheese. I am delighted that this treasure is just around the corner, as I still have much to learn about the complex world of French cheeses. Although no longer a novice, I am hardly an expert, and I gain new insights each time I come thanks to the playful, interactive displays.
The visit ends with a tasting, and I spend quite a while browsing the boutique before securing my selections. This will make for a tasty afternoon! Fortunately I picked up some wine a few days ago as the cavistes are mostly closed on Mondays.
Provisions properly stowed, and taking a moment to admire the fresh, golden baguette resting next to the colorful market bouquet, I set out to flâner. Whether an art or a national pastime, this joyful practice requires wandering at will, wherever my heart takes me. Today I stroll towards the Jardin des Plantes, with its lush botanical gardens and zoo. If the clouds happen to roll in, I’ll duck into the Musée National d’Histoire Naturelle. Either way, Monday afternoons are bliss.
Tuesday — Stained-Glass, Palaces + Prisons
Tuesday has a “back-to-work” feel, as businesses open back up, and although the energy has shifted, I am still free to explore. The intense morning sunlight is calling me to revisit a favorite, La Sainte-Chapelle, where the incredible stain-glass windows recount biblical tales in grandiose fashion. Afterwards I slip next door to the Conciergerie for some Marie-Antoinette-era history. Stepping back into the light dancing on the Seine, I opt for a late picnic at Square du Vert-Galant on the tip of Île de la Cité, my toes nearly in the water.
Wednesday — Mercredi = Le Marais
The Marais is special and warrants a full day of attention. I begin at the Musée Carnavalet, a hidden gem in Paris that is definitely worth a detour! The museum, housed in two connected historic mansions, tells the story of Paris, from its humble beginning as the Roman town of Lutetia, up through modern times, including moving tributes from the terrorist attacks in 2015. With this intimate walk through time, I can’t help but feel that this history belongs not only to Parisians, but to all of us.
For lunch, I wander along Rue des Rosiers, with its quaint cobblestone streets. Drawn by the crowds and warm aromas, I stop at L’As du Fallafel, where a golden pita overflowing with crisp vegetables and tender falafel is prepared before my eyes. With lunch in hand, I wander a few steps further to Place des Vosges. Built in 1612 by King Henri IV, this graceful square, framed by arcades and shaded by centuries-old trees invites me to linger. I find a cozy spot on the lush grass and absorb the cadence of Parisian life while enjoying each bite of my déjeuner.
The rest of the day is filled with a favorite indulgence: shopping! Le Marais does not disappoint!
Thursday — Market-to-Table Lunch
Marché Maubert beckons! I enjoy the leisurely 10-minute walk to this lively market, in search of fresh local produce to inspire my lunch with friends. Will it be tomatoes that smell like August, a tub of rillettes? I grab a handful of bright ruby cherries while I peruse the variety of stalls.
It is the morel mushrooms that grab my attention. And so I decide to feature the Burgundy region, with a coq au vin jaune et morilles. (Recipe and photo from Mangia McCann) I will complement the plat principal with a variety of Burgundy cheeses and a lovely Chardonnay.
My guests arrive, and we enjoy a lovely meal, windows open to river sounds—street music drifting from Pont Saint-Louis.
Friday — Latin Quarter Meander, Big-Sky Sunset
Friday has an energetic vibe. Inspired by the view of the Panthéon out my window, I decide that the Latin Quarter is just the place to immerse myself in a lively atmosphere. Rue Mouffetard, or “La Mouffe” is a pedestrian street filled with cafés and specialty shops, plus a daily market. I take my time, absorbing the gaiety of the street.
When I have had my fill, I debate between visiting the Panthéon where some of France’s greatest minds — Voltaire, Victor Hugo, Marie Curie — are entombed beneath a majestic dome, and the Musée de Cluny. This Musée du Moyen Age is small but fascinating; the highlight being the “Lady and the Unicorn” tapestry series. I have seen them both before, but each warrants a return. Ultimately it is the delicate, mysterious tapestry of La Dame et La Licorne that wins out.
Back at home, golden hour is saved for Pont de la Tournelle—the view lining up with Notre-Dame, the sky doing its nightly theater.
Saturday — Market-to-Table, Then Music by Candlelight
A ray of sunshine peaks through the skylight. It is morning, but I am cozy in the loft and decide to linger a bit longer. I bask in the thought that I am home, not in a hotel that is waiting for me to vacate for another tourist.
In fact, I am so relaxed that breakfast fades into lunch, as I linger over a book and the views out over the rooftops. It isn’t until I crave something sweet that I descend from my perch. Dessert is waiting at the incomparable Berthillon, where ice creams, sorbets and frozen creations are as beautiful as they are delicious. Choosing among them will no doubt be the most taxing decision of my day!
The perfect bookend to my relaxing day is the candlelight concert at Sainte-Chapelle—Bach or Vivaldi beneath the glass is goose-bump territory- followed by a stroll home along the river.
Et voilà, another perfect week on Ile Saint Louis at Le Nid Parisien!
