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Fall Follies: Enjoying the Shoulder Season in France

Picture of Ginny Blackwell
Ginny Blackwell

International Property Shares

Picture of Ginny Blackwell
Ginny Blackwell

International Property Shares
November 14, 2024

The “shoulder season” is increasingly becoming a favorable time to travel to France, and with good cause! During this time, the crowds diminish, the weather is milder, and tired places previously overrun with tourists are revitalized with charming local festivals.

During early October, my mother and I were in Nice and stumbled upon a “Fête du Terroir” in nearby Saint-Laurent-du-Var. This event transported us back in time, immersing us in the traditions and folklore of yesteryear.

We enjoyed Celtic musicians, dancers, blacksmiths, and various ancient games. Witnessing the preservation of French heritage always seems to captivate me. The elaborate costumes were a sight to behold, but what truly amazed me was observing a cobbler crafting shoes as they were made centuries ago, and the meticulous work put into replicating real ships in miniature. Truly a labor of love. What a treat to share in this glimpse of history that isn’t mine, but somehow I still felt a part of.

While the city life of Nice is joyful, I never miss an opportunity to explore. Venturing out into what I like to call the “Heart of Provence”, we stopped in Les Baux-de-Provence (a “pause obligatoire” for moi, as it is simply the most enchanting place I know) then took a detour. A wanderer at heart, I have this insatiable curiosity to always see what lies just beyond the next bend.

The Pont-du-Gard aqueduct has been on my “must see” list for decades, and requires crossing over into the region of Occitanie, in the Gard département. Built in 60 AD, it remains one of the best preserved Roman aqueduct bridges, and is truly a site to behold! But it is the nearby village of Vers-Pont-du-Gard that was my true destination. I wanted to see the International Property Shares home called “Le Muguet”, and to meet some of its fractional owners.

Pont-du-Gard

Betsy Kohler and Steve Bilsky were having a cool drink on the balcony when we arrived, and graciously gave us a tour of this stunning property. If you think of everything that made you fall in love with French architecture. you will understand this home! The stone arches of the living and dining rooms remind me of Romanesque churches, and the spiral staircase that leads to the bedrooms makes me feel as if we are in a castle in the Loire Valley. To say it is “charming” doesn’t even come close!

While touring the home, it was easy to see the strong bond Betsy and Steve had created with both the house and the community. They adored the unique aspects of their home, they knew all of the local hot spots, and it was obvious that they seamlessly adapted to this rhythm of life. Betsy shared stories about “life as a local”, and I asked if she would consider writing about her experiences. In true fashion, she graciously accepted! Enjoy!

One of the unexpected joys of fractional ownership are the opportunities to experience local culture during the off season — and often as a surprise.

This year we are in Vers Pont du Gard for the month of October, and it’s pretty quiet. We have had several rainy and overcast days mixed with bright sunny fall weather.  One day, while talking to the woman who sells rotisserie chickens from her truck on Sundays, we learned that the following week bulls would be running through the streets of the village with the traditional guardians— or cowboys.  

We had seen no other signs or indications but sure enough the barriers started arriving on Friday and on Saturday the festivities began with the “abrivado”, a carousel on the square, and stands selling drinks and snacks.  The bulls, surrounded by the cowboys on horses ran back and forth on the street, with teenage boys chasing after them trying to grab the bull’s tail or grab his horns!

A few days later we stumbled upon a Medieval Fair in Uzès, complete with costumed merry-makers strolling the streets and stalls with demonstrations of medieval arms, leather goods, and raucous songs.

Last year we were here in November and attended a Santon Fair in nearby Tarascon. Santons are small clay figures that represent all aspects of Provençal life-from the garlic merchant, to the baker, to the fisherman, who each bring special gifts to the holiday crèches. Not only were there hundreds of santons on display for purchase, but also people in dressed as santons parading through town, complete with Père Noel, donkeys, camels and Wisemen.

Next year we will be here in May— and the fields will be filled with bright red poppies.  No matter what time of year you have to enjoy your fractional ownership there will always be surprises and new experiences. – Betsy Kohler

To escape the throngs of tourists (that seem to get larger every year!) consider traveling in the fall or spring. Or, if the idea of experiencing the same location at various times of year strikes a cord, perhaps you are ready to explore a place of your own – or with others!

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