Just steps from the stunning property called “Le Muguet”, Le Pont du Gard stands tall and majestic, bathed in the soft light of autumn. Fall in the park feels calm and peaceful, but less than an hour away, there is a joyful bustle of activity as the olive harvest is underway at Moulin Castelas in les Baux-de-Provence.
The Story of Moulin Castelas: A Labor of Love
The robust olive trees in this area date back hundreds of years, but the story of Moulin Castelas began in 1997, when Jean-Benoît and Catherine Hugues returned from 15 years in the US and fell in love with these olive groves in the rocky Alpilles.
This coup de coeur inspired hard work, dedication, and some innovative practices, including building their own mill to better control the quality of their oils. Since the completion of the mill, which is crafted using the model of a winery (after all, both products involve crushing fruit!), they have been producing award-winning oils, year after year.
Discovering the Nuances of Olive Oil Through Tasting
I first visited the mill with a group in 2011. When the boutique proposed an “olive oil tasting,” I was slightly hesitant! A bit naïve, I didn’t know that there were different varieties of olives and that many oils were blends, much like wine. The tasting was not only pleasant but eye-opening!
In time my palate has become adept at identifying a single-variety Aglandau from The Classic (Appellation d’Origine Protégée Vallée des Baux de Provence) blend of 4 olives, which has a more complex flavor with a bit of a peppery finish. I have learned which oil to use in which dish, and to simply have fun playing with the flavors.
A Unique Harvest Experience
Visiting the mill during the harvest is a special treat. A flurry of tractors are coming and going, depositing pallets of olives and branches onto a conveyor belt that quickly separates the olives from leaves and branches. Then they are washed in water, crushed in a grinder to produce a paste. That paste goes into kneaders inside the mill where the process of cold extraction takes place. Cold extraction, a term that was a mystery to me, but which Emilie Hugues describes so well:
The Art of Cold Extraction: Pure Essence in Every Drop
The much-anticipated moment has arrived—our olives are finally at the mill for cold extraction using only mechanical processes. But what does this technique really mean? Cold extraction by mechanical guarantees a natural method free from solvents or additives, preserving all the authenticity of our olive oil. Unlike other processes that involve chemicals, cold extraction is a natural process under 27°C (80°F) without any additives. This approach conserves all the natural aromas and antioxidants found in olives.
The result? An olive oil with an intense flavor that reflects the character of our terroir. Every drop is infused with our passion and craftsmanship.
The Ever-Evolving Selection of Aromatic Olive Oils
While harvest time is a dynamic time to visit, the mill opens its doors with warmth and convivialité all year long. Over the years, I have returned time and again, and each time there is something fresh and new. The “aromatiques” are oils obtained by crushing olives with fresh fruits such as cédrat (citron, the ancestor of lemon), or fresh herbs like basil/mint and rosemary/thyme.
These are not macerated or “flavored” oils, but rather the fruit and herbs are ground with the olives. The essential oils of the herb or fruit are soluble in olive oil, infusing the oil with intense aromas and taste. The collection keeps adding new blends, including my most recent favorite, black olive with roasted garlic. Sublime.
A Stroll Through the Olive Groves
In addition to expanding the selection, the tasting space has also grown to accommodate the large groups that arrive in tour buses. Not to be missed is the new sensory, educational walk through the majestic olive groves. Look to the left for a peek at the medieval village perched high between the trees, and look right to see the rugged expanse of the Alpilles. The edge of the grove opens up to endless vines from the neighboring winery Le Mas de la Dame before turning back to the mill. This is a tranquil place to commune with nature.
Bringing a Taste of Provence Home
This culinary treasure is best experienced at its source, bien sûr, so if you find yourself in the heart of Provence, Moulin Castelas is definitely worth a detour. Back at home, you can also evoke images of the sturdy trees with their delicate silver-green leaves in your own kitchen, thanks to a thriving export business. Visit our boutique to have your petit bonheur delivered to your doorstep.